Previous Articles in IGUANA IGUANA
For a list of all previous main articles in the printed
newsletter, see our site map.
Lumps and Bumps
Beating the Winter Blahs
The Importance of Healthy Bones
Kidney and Liver Function
Macro and Micro Nutrients
Building An Outdoor Summer Shelter
From Monster to Mouse and Back Again
Dehydration or Dying of Thirst
The Joys of Iguana Ownership
VOL.8 /NO.10
LUMPS AND BUMPS
A LUMP OR BUMP THAT APPEARS ON YOUR IGUANA CAN SPELL DANGER. Obvious swelling of the jaw in iguanas under a year of age is usually metabolic bone disease (MBD), but, in iguanas of any age, a bump can also be an abscess. The swelling from MBD is usually symmetrical and an abscess generally appears on one side of the jaw.
But a lump or bump that appears anywhere on an iguana must be carefully inspected and usually requires a trip to the vet for further treatment. Abscesses, cysts, ulcerated skin, blisters, and crusty dermatitis all have one thing in common. The cause is usually based on improper husbandry.
Infections seen in iguanas frequently are attributed to damp, dirty and underheated environments coupled with poor nutrition. An iguana that has to live in an inadequate enclosure and is not fed a proper diet is destined to get sick. Living in a substandard environment causes stress, weakens the immune system and can result in infection from pathogens, bacteria, and fungus.
Dermatitis and pyoderma in iguanas can manifest as liquid-filled blisters, crusty areas, ulceration of the skin, or dark, discolored patches of skin. Dermatitis can be incorrectly diagnosed as a burn when the problem is actually much more serious. If you have your heating elements properly placed and your vet suggests the cause is a burn, request a bacterial culture of the problem area to rule out dermatitis.
If you notice a dark, crusty area on the face, legs or body of your iguana, first inspect the enclosure's heating and lights. Are the heating elements far enough away from your ig? Has something been dislodged and is in a lower or closer position? Iguanas are active animals and a heat or light fixture may be moved by a climbing animal or lashing tail. Always check your appliances regularly for a change in position, especially if you use clamp-on fixtures. Double check distance of a basking light by placing a strip thermometer below it to check the maximum temperature. If it goes over 100 degrees, you need to raise the fixture to prevent burns.
Blisters that appear on an iguana are often caused by burns. This includes dark patches on the nose. Always cover any light or heat bulb with screening to prevent your iguana pressing his or her nose on the hot bulb. Iguanas are very curious about light bulbs. It is a common way that iguanas get nostral burns. Obviously, never use a hot rock!
So how does the vet determine that a blister or abscess is not just a burn or abrasion? By doing a bacterial culture of the infected area. Fluid from blisters and cultures from the lining of an abscess can be submitted for bacterial culture and cytology.
Treatment usually consists of injecting the iguana with antibiotics specific to that bacteria or pathogen in combination with topical antibiotic cream and a correction of any husbandry problems.
The characteristics of an abscess are:
1) A lump or bump under the skin that is hard when pressed.
2) The skin surface may be discolored.
3) The iguana may react in pain when the area is touched.
4) They are generally found on the face, ear openings, limbs, feet and body. Abscesses rarely appear on the tail and a blackening of the tail end is generally necrotic or dead tissue. However, cysts can appear on the tail. Cysts are often softer and fluid-filled and, while a cyst may not be an abscess, it should still be examined by a vet.
If the abscess has burst and is weeping thick material, clear fluid or blood, you must get the iguana to the veterinarian immediately. Reptile pus from an abscess is generally cheesy, thick, granulated, and white, green or yellow in color. Be very careful to wash the area well with warm water and Betadine solution and cover with clean gauze. Wash your hands well as the material from an abscess is highly infectious and can be zoonotic or transferred to humans. An infection from an abscess, even if drained after bursting, will reoccur if not correctly treated
An abscess must be removed completely or lanced, the caseous material removed, flushed and packed with antibiotic ointment. A bacterial culture is taken from the lining of the abscess (not from the material removed). Always ask the vet about the site of the cultured material to be studied as culturing the contents of an abscess may not reveal the true nature of the infection.
Reoccurring abscesses may indicate a resistance to a particular antibiotic. Always make sure you write down the name or names of any antibiotic or medicine administered to your iguana. The use or misuse of a previously prescribed antibiotic could have created a resistance to that particular antibiotic and another should be prescribed.
Reoccurring abscesses can also indicate the presence of a primary, systemic infection in the body cavity. An infection in the colon, hind gut or coelomic cavity can reveal itself by the repeated appearance of abscesses in the extremities. An infection this advanced will take a concentrated effort on the part of the veterinarian to control.
An infection that is not treated or mistreated and allowed to extend into deeper tissue or internal organs can cause the loss of extremities, tail, eyes, ears and even loss of life. An infection is not a problem that can be ignored and must be treated early and aggressively.
Another cause for the appearance of a bump can be from parasites such as mites that have burrowed under the scales. Watch for dark spots or small bumps on your iguana's body or tail. If you suspect mites, look carefully in your enclosure for the small bugs. Lift stones or branches and watch carefully for movement. Place a lightly folded white sheet of paper in the enclosure and check it first thing in the morning. You might find red or black mites in the crease.
If you do discover mites in the enclosure or on your iguana, you must clean the entire enclosure with bleach and hot soapy water. Discard any porous objects that cannot be washed. Soak your iguana in a tepid bath with the addition of a tablespoon of Listerine and Betadine. Soak your iguana for at least ten minutes but keep the water away from the head. Repeat this procedure every few days for a couple of weeks.
Infections and abscesses in the mouth area are often referred to, even by misinformed vets, as "mouth rot" also known as infectious stomatitis which often seen in snakes. "Mouth rot" is very uncommon in iguanas or any species of lizard for that matter. For instance, some iguanas have a dark area at the tip of the tongue which can be misdiagnosed as "mouth rot" or the symptoms of metabolic bone disease like a misshapen or swollen tongue may be incorrectly called "mouth rot".
If you have a concern about inflamed tissue in your iguanas mouth, do not let the guy at the pet store sell you something for mouth rot in snakes. Take your iguana to the vet for a proper diagnosis. Hematology or blood work, pharyngeal or throat cultures and lung washing for cytology are the proper tools used in diagnosing stomatitis.
Trying to medicate or treat disease at home often leads to a more serious problem or a permanent disability. It is cheaper to get to the problem early and save your iguana the increased pain and stress from the complications of a mistreated or untreated disease. If your iguana develops an abscess, you must review your enclosure and your husbandry techniques. Look for sharp edges or wires that could cut your iguana. Bacteria enters through scratches in the skin. Separate two iguanas if they fight. Make sure your enclosure is clean, dry and free from dirty water or old food.
Vol. 8/No. 12
BEATING THE WINTER BLAHS
WHEN THE TEMPERATURE DROPS AND THE SKY GETS dark and dreary, our iguanas tend to suffer from the winter blahs. This is especially apparent for iguanas who get to spend the summer outside in their sunny outdoor enclosures. The weather changes, fall creeps in and, for most of the country, no more iguana weather.
What happens to our iguana who is used to spending his or her days basking out in real sunlight? It varies. Some iguanas get mad and begin to behave like they are angry, some iguanas just mope around and don't want to eat, some iguanas stalk the house and scratch at the windows and doors, demanding to be let outside. And some iguanas do all of the above.
The winter blahs don't just happen to iguanas who have outdoor enclosures. Changes in photoperiod like daylight savings and the return to standard time, the sun going down earlier, the temperature in the house getting cooler - all the changes that the changing seasons bring can create conflict in our iguana.
The iguana comes from a temperate climate that experiences minimal change. Temperature fluctuation is within fifteen or twenty degrees at most. The major change is in rainfall amounts from the dry season to the wet season. Even if we attempt to regulate their environment completely, changes in our environment are going impact theirs no matter what we do. You can't, and shouldn't, build an air tight enclosure that has constant temperatures. Iguanas need air circulation and seasonal changes in temperature, humidity, and light to feel "normal" and to create or recreate healthy bodily functions. For all we know, iguanas may suffer from the wet season blahs in the rainforest when the rain is pouring down and food isn't readily available yet.
So, how can you help your iguana through the winter blahs? First of all, make sure that your iguana is at optimum weight and health going into winter. One of the reasons your iguana seems to have a huge appetite in the summer is because he or she is preparing for the "dry season" or a period of limited food resources. In the rain forest, plants and trees slow leaf growth during periods of dry weather. An iguana must make the most of the food availability during peak growth periods.
Evolutionary information buried deep in an iguana's brain drive their behavior. Never assume that because an iguana lives in the U.S. or was bred in captivity, they have less of a connection with their wildness, with the evolutionary drive of a rain forest animal.
So living in a captive situation can make their existence very difficult. Think stress. Any change, however subtle, can affect an iguana's personality. Combine that with an ambient temperature change during colder weather and the loss of sunlight and your iguana is going to go through some changes.
Many homes do not have central heating or keep thermostats at low overnight temperatures. Review your iguana enclosure and your own enclosure (your house) to see what you need to do to make the transition from summer to winter easier on your iguana. If you do let your house get cold at night, the temperature in your iguana enclosure will be lower than it was in the summer when the ambient temperature in your house was much higher.
Central air and heat can affect the enclosure, as well. Forced-air heating is very dry and humidity is affected. Make sure you increase the humidity in the area of the enclosure if your house is very dry.
Watch for changes in your iguana's behavior. Does he or she seem uninterested in a favorite food usually consumed with gusto? Does your iguana, who normally eats every day, suddenly decide to skip a few meals? Do you observe a change in behavior like abnormal aggressiveness or lethargy? Many of these behavioral changes can be the beginning of illness but they can also be the result of the change in the season.
Don't stress out thinking that your iguana is getting sick but be more aware of the progression of the behavior. Even if the behavior is caused by winter blahs, it can expose your iguana to illness because of the depression in the immune system. During these stress-induced periods, make sure the enclosure is kept slightly warmer than normal. An iguana that is suffering the blahs is stressed and needs to be kept nice and warm.
If your iguana is put on antibiotics, your vet should tell you to keep the ambient temperature in the lower range of the enclosure at no less than 85 degrees. Antibiotics work best when a reptile is kept at the higher range of temperatures. Remember than higher temperatures mean more chance of dehydration so hydrate your iguana while he or she is kept at warmer temperatures.
A warm bath every few days can accomplish that but make sure that the bath is given during the day and that the iguana is completely dry before putting him or her back in the enclosure for the night. Dry folds and creases with a fluffy towel. Dampness can cause fungus to grow and can also cause a drop in body temperature while the wet areas evaporate.
As long as your iguana, nice and fat from lots of summer eating, eats
fairly regularly and poops every day or so, you don't have to worry during
these initial winter blahs. Offer favorite foods, be gentle and all will
be well.
Article Index - Top of Page
Vol.9/No.1
THE IMPORTANCE OF HEALTHY BONES
THE MOST IMPORTANT JOB OF VITAMIN D AND CALCIUM is to combine together to build strong bones. We all know "Drink milk - it does a body good." Human beings need calcium to be healthy and to grow properly. So do iguanas. The growth rate of an iguana and humans are similar. They both reach adulthood in about the first fifth (20%) of life.
One of the most prevalent diseases that afflicted children during the Depression era of the 1930's was rickets, a disorder caused by an insufficiency of Vitamin D from a lack of calcium in the diet in concert with a decreased exposure to the sun. Rickets or osteomalecia is a softening or weakening of the bones. It is a disease with many similarities to Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) or, more correctly, Nutritional Secondary Hyperparathyroidism (NSHP) in iguanas.
While treating rickets in children, it was discovered that exposure to sunlight increased the body's ability to absorb and metabolize Vitamin D. In fact, it was proved that Vitamin D was produced by the skin when the skin was exposed to ultraviolet light, especially sunlight. Because children in certain areas of the country (and also in England) were exposed to the sun less in the winter, they were given cod liver oil as a dietary Vitamin D supplement. Vitamin D is fat-soluble, absorbed by the body through the walls of the intestines.
However, an iguana's digestive system is not designed to digest fat molecules from dietary additions like fish oil. The iguana's hindgut does not absorb the crude vitamin D found in supplements like fish oil as well as it does the naturally dynamic Vitamin D created by sun exposure.
Calcium is not the only vitamin or mineral required by the iguana. Phosphorus is also necesary. The proper ratio between the two minerals is very important. Phosphorous works with calcium to produce bone density. Vitamin D acts as a hormone to regulate calcium absorption, phosphate levels, and the balance of calcium and phosphates in the bloodstream and in the bones.
A well-balanced diet of foods that have the proper calcium to phosphorus ratio of approximately two parts calcium to one part phosphorus (2:1) provide an iguana with the necessary components for normal bone growth when sun exposure (ultraviolet wide-spectrum rays) is included.
Feeding a diet high in phosphorus-heavy foods such as apples, bananas, Brussels sprouts, iceberg lettuce, broccoli heads or flowerettes, tomatoes, and especially grapes, change the equilibrium and negatively affects blood chemistry.
Calcium absorption can also be affected by foods which interfere with normal calcium metabolism. Foods that contain oxylates or phytates can undo the work of well-balanced, calcium-rich foods by actually blocking calcium absorption. Oxylates are found in spinach, parsley, rhubarb, and clover. If you feed these foods on a regular basis, you will defeat the vitamin-rich properties of the other foods you feed by increasing the calcium-blocking oxylates.
Phytates are found in whole grains, seeds, nuts and legumes. An enzyme called phytase is also found in these foods which breaks down phytates. Sprouting grains, seeds, and beans will activate the phytase enzyme as will soaking and gentle heating. So if you want to feed protein-rich legumes (beans and peas), you can soak them overnight by putting them in warm water, sprout them, or cook and cool them thereby releasing the phytase which breaks down the calcium-blocking phytates.
Commercial diets tend to be made with wheat, corn, apples, and carrots. All these foods are high in phytates and phosphorus. Even if the diet claims to have supplemental calcium, crude calcium carbonate (one cheaper calcium supplement used) or bone meal (another cheap supplement) is not absorbed into the system as well as the naturally-occurring negative substances such as phosphates and phytates. The additional claims of these products that they contain Vitamin D will not help as the absorption of Vitamin D in the form of fish oil is minimal.
Another concern is the well-intentioned addition of MORE supplements by the seemingly conscientious owner trying to make sure that their pet gets enough vitamins. Hypervitamintosis or toxic vitamin poisoning is caused by over-supplementation of powdered vitamins and/or feeding commercial foods that are already supplemented with dietary vitamins and then adding more.
THE BODY ABD CALCIUM
The body regulates calcium levels in the blood serum very carefully. Vitamin D is the essential factor in determining which of two hormones gets released to control the calcium levels in the blood. In an iguana, as the calcium/phosphorous equilibrium is lost, a hormone - PTH - is excreted that causes the calcium in the bones to dissolve into the bloodstream. This "resorption" or calcium loss causes the breakdown or softening of the actual bone fiber, causes joint swelling and even swelling of the tissue surrounding the joint or long bones.
PTH or parathyroid hormone
PTH or parathyroid hormone is released in response to low levels of calcium in the blood. This causes an increase in the resorption or release of calcium from the bones into the bloodstream.
CalcEtonin
Calcetonin, a beneficial hormone, stimulates the absorption of
calcium from foods and increases bone creation or deposition.
Article Index - Top of Page
Vol.9/No.2
Kidney and Liver Function
IN PAST CENTURIES, PEOPLE SUFFERED FROM A DISEASE CALLED GOUT. Usually a disease of the wealthy, upper class, the reason for the painful swelling of the limbs and inflammation of the joints and internal organs was an overindulgence of rich food, too much fat, protein and alcohol. Iguanas can also suffer from a condition often described as gout.
The metabolic process that causes visceral or articular gout or the resulting liver (hepatic disease or cirrhosis) and kidney disease (nephritis) in iguanas is caused by a number of factors. A diet high in protein, especially animal protein like dog and cat food or meat, cannot be metabolized by the herbivorous iguana causing a high level of uric acid salts that can reach toxic levels quickly. The excess urate crystals or granuloma collect in the internal organs and the damage may become so advanced that the organs can no longer function. But animal protein is not the only source of uric or other salts that cause kidney or liver damage.
Because people who purchase iguanas from pet stores are, more often than not, given the wrong information, many young iguanas do not get a very good start in life. With an inadequate diet and an improper environment, damage can be done early that will come back to haunt the iguana in later life. Even iguanas that are fed properly can develop damaged organs due to inadequate UV exposure, use of sun lamps, dehydration, hypervitamintosis due to oversupplementation, or improper use of antibiotics.
Iguanas have kidneys that process and excrete insoluble uric salts like sodium, potassium and ammonium urates. Keeping the urinary system healthy and hydrated prevents the system from poisoning itself. The kidneys help maintain the delicate balance of body fluids, filter out toxins, regulate electrolytes and the uric acid content.
Kidney failure is a leading cause of death in the older iguana. Part of the problem is recognizing the symptoms of kidney and liver failure because they tend to be non-specific - lethargy, increased thirst due to dehydration and refusal of food (anorexia).
Besides making sure that your iguana is getting the proper diet and sun exposure, it is equally important to make sure that your iguana is always fully hydrated. Dehydration causes the blood plasma to become more concentrated allowing uric acid to reach toxic levels.
When the kidneys try to process the high levels of urates, crystals form and the kidney's tissues are damaged. Prolonged dehydration concentrates the insoluble salts in the internal organs and then begins to deposit metabolic wastes in the joints, as well.
It is critical to interrupt this process before it becomes too toxic to the kidneys. Once the urate crystals are deposited in the tissues, they resist removal because of the insolubility of the salts.
Hydration is critical at this point. Hydration should be a regular part of your routine and can be achieved by soaking your iguana at least twice a week in a warm water bath for between 10 and 20 minutes.
Iguanas can absorb fluids through their cloaca vent at the base of the tail. Submerging the vent end in warm water will allow the fluid to be drawn into the iguana's urinary tract.
You must always make available a small bowl of fresh water for your iguana to drink. Make sure that the bowl of water is too small for your iguana to get into. As we know, iguanas like to poop in water so select a bowl that is small and is only large enough to drink from. However, an iguana that is observed drinking from a water bowl regularly may be suffering from dehydration. An iguana that sneezes out a lot of salts is trying desperately to get control of metabolic salts that are building up in his or her system.
You can add a humidifier to your enclosure area to raise the humidity level but actual moisture content from soaking, feeding fresh greens, and additional fluids will go a long way in preventing organ damage.
Excessive heat from improperly placed heating units can cause dehydration as can the use of sun lamps. Sun lamps can also deliver excessive amounts of ultraviolet light causing hypervitamintosis.
You can give your iguana fluids in the form of regular water, Pedialyte (which has electrolytes to battle dehydration,) or Gatorade. Plain Pedialyte is preferred over Gatorade as it has no sugar or fruit juice. If you suspect, or your vet has diagnosed, that your iguana has kidney or liver disease, avoid fruit and fruit juice (except for cranberry) because it can raise the acid content of urates.
You can administer extra water with a squeeze bottle, plastic syringe or turkey baster. Use bottled water if your municipal water has high chlorine content. If you live in an area that has hard water with lots of minerals, use that water as it has beneficial minerals, iron and calcium - unless your iguana is suffering from liver or kidney disease. Bottled water is the safest. See the accompanying article and diagram on the care you must use when administering fluids to your iguana through the mouth.
There are many things you can do to prevent and treat kidney and liver damage including proper diet, rehydration, acid reduction, probiotics, herbs and herbal teas, and vitamin/mineral/enzyme supplementation. See the accompanying articles for ideas and suggestions.
THE KIDNEYS (RENAL SYSTEM):
The kidneys help maintain the delicate balance of body fluids, filter out toxins, regulate electrolytes and the uric acid content. When the kidneys process urine, the insolubility of the urates can build in the kidneys if blood circulation is inadequate. The kidneys need high water content to process and expel these urates or damage to the kidney's delicate tissues can occur. The kidneys cannot heal themselves as readily as the liver so damage that occurs from excessive uric acid salts like sodium, potassium and ammonium can be permanent.
THE LIVER:
The liver is miraculous because of its diversity of life-sustaining functions. An amazingly complex organ, the liver virtually affects every physiological process of the body. It is the largest organ in the iguana's body. It produces bile which helps to break down fats in the intestines and hindgut. It is the filter for the bloodstream and removes toxins, carbohydrates, proteins and fat, and removes red blood cells that have outlived their usefulness. It regulates metabolism and has amazing regenerative properties - it can heal itself.
One of the most important things you can do to improve the health of your iguana's internal organs, especially those organs that process metabolic waste like urine, is to keep the concentration of the urates at manageable levels. If your iguana has been diagnosed with liver or kidney malfunction, you must keep the acid content in the food you feed him or her at low levels. It is critical to control acidity and reduce uric acid content. Do not feed acidic fruits, although supplementing with liquid vitamins including Vitamin C is important. Vitamin C is an important component to a balanced vitamin regimen and an animal suffering from liver or kidney damage should get vitamin supplementation in the form of liquid vitamins with enzyme. Your health food store can show you a well-balanced vitamin/mineral/enzymatic liquid supplement. We will discuss the role of vitamins and minerals and the use of probiotics in next month's issue.
Do not feed high protein items as we have discussed. You can also give your iguana a small amount of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda - not baking powder) to de-acidify the urine. You can also give ranitidine (Zantac) at a dose of 5mg./kg - 5mg./2.2lbs. once a day. Ranitidine is a powerful gastric acid inhibitor. However, ranitidine is medication so care must be taken that the proper dosage is given. If your iguana is suffering from kidney or liver disease, talk to the vet about adding sodium bicarbonate or ranitidine to your daily regimen.
If your iguana has been diagnosed with liver or kidney disease, you can help him or her by feeding several small meals a day instead of one great big meal. The less food the body has to process at one time, the easier it is on the organs that must process the urates created by the digestion of the food. And remember - fluids, water, hydration is critical. How do you recognized if your iguana is dehydrated? The skin of a dehydrated iguana is not loose and pliable. When you pinch the skin, it stays elevated for a second or two.
Understanding the role of the kidneys and liver and the part they play in the health of your iguana will help you understand how to keep your iguana's organs functioning properly.
Therefore, prevention and early detection of problems will not only help your iguana live a longer, healthier life but will mean less trips to the vet and intensive care to try and repair damaged organs.
Remember that your iguana should be living in a rainforest with temperatures in the 80's or 90's, lots of vegetation to eat and the sun to bask in for the necessary internal processes to function properly. It is our responsibility to make a reasonable attempt to create as healthy an environment for the animals in our lives as we can.
VOL. 9/NO. 4
Macro and Micro Nutrients
WE KNOW THAT A WELL-BALANCED DIET COMPOSED OF VARIOUS GREENS, VEGETABLES
AND FRUIT IS THE BEST MEDICINE A GROWING IGUANA CAN GET.
.
Good nutrition, combined with the other essential elements of utilizing
that nutrition (like proper heat, sunlight and a roomy enclosure), is the
basis for all stages of an iguana's proper growth and good health.
Nutrition can be described as a balance of vitamins, minerals (including trace minerals), amino acids, enzymes and micronutrients that all together support the proper function of internal organs, skeletal growth, muscle, tissue and nerve maintenance, and normal body metabolism.
In iguanas, as well as other ectothermic poikilotherms (animals whose bodies don't generate internal heat but depend on external sources of heat for internal body function), research on nutritional requirements are limited and have only been officially recorded in the last few years. Much of the information we (and veterinarians) rely on is based on trial and error, observation, and experimentation.
One thing we know for sure is that an iguana that fails to thrive is missing an important component in his or her daily life. It could be lack of proper heating - day and night, poor enclosure conditions, stress (very important!) or inadequate diet.
Last month we talked about proper renal (kidney) and liver function because the way iguana's process their food puts special demands on these organs. An iguana's reduced metabolic rate requires proper heating and cooling (temperature gradients). Less than ideal conditions will impair the iguana's ability to absorb and process the essential nutrients. As the iguana grows, these less than ideal conditions begin the slow process of damaging these vital filtering organs so that the animal's life span and ability to thrive are forever compromised.
These very nutrients, fed under less than ideal conditions and in a partially or unprocessed form, can create the insoluable (uncapable of dissolving) salts and high acidic content that damages delicate tissues in the kidneys and liver. This damage will continue, especially in the kidneys, if the problems in husbandry and diet are not corrected.
So just feeding a well-balanced diet is not the whole answer, it is only a part of the puzzle. A good diet must be combined with correct temperature gradients and exposure to the sun (UV light waves) so that vitamins, minerals, and the other essential micronutrients are properly manufactured and metabolized.
Most authorities agree that most necessary vitamins and minerals are available through a good diet with sun exposure and that supplementation is really not necessary. Overzealous application of crude calcium/vitamin powder from the pet store can actually do more harm than good.
The image of a young iguana being offered a plate of greens with white powder liberally sprinkled on top is a sad one. It is no wonder that the small iguana doesn't have an appetite for such a meal. It certainly doesn't look, smell or taste like something good to eat.
Yes, an immature iguana probably can use that extra calcium while in that first year or two of rapid growth but there are many other ways to administer it. Look for a complete liquid vitamin supplement with calcium and no phosphorus. Most reptile vitamin powders use calcium carbonate and dicalcium phosphate along with Vitamin D. Iguana diets never need the addition of powdered phosphorous as most vegetables have both phosphorus and potassium in adequate or high levels. Keeping the diet at 2:1 calcium to phosphorous is difficult if not impossible if you are supplementing with dicalcium phosphate.
If your iguana is under two years old, supplement twice weekly with a pinch of calcium citrate (finely grind up a tablet) and never use a vitamin supplement with phosphorus or Vitamin D added. The addition of Vitamin D to reptile vitamin/mineral supplements assumes the purchaser is not giving their iguana the proper exposure to UV lighting or sunlight. This is how vitamin overdosing (Hypervitamintosis) occurs. Oversupplementing crude Vitamin D causes the body to process too much blood calcium which is not expelled by the body but stored in the organs, tissues, muscles, kidneys and other internal organs causing a mineralization of the tissues. With an adequate amount of calcium and exposure to the proper ultraviolet light waves that metabolize natural Vitamin D, any extra calcium ingested will be expelled with the urates and feces.
Using pet store powders (or vitamin sprays which are just as bad) will not help you to maintain a proper calcium/phosphorus ratio. And... Always remember that giving crude supplements does not make up for an inadequate diet.
GETTING A BASELINE BLOOD TEST
If your iguana is doing well and seems perfectly healthy and happy, you may choose to get a blood test done so you have baseline information on hand for future use. Knowing what is a normal value can help you and the veterinarian understand whether your iguana's system is undergoing a serious change when blood is drawn and tested during an illness.
Blood tests can be expensive so call your vet first and ask what it would cost to do a baseline blood test. You will probably have to explain why you want it. Hopefully, a reptile vet will understand and appreciate that you are planning ahead for possible problems when your iguana gets older. If your vet is reticent, you might inquire if there is a lab in the area that could perform the blood draw and testing.
Checking with a lab in your area might save you money also. If you live in a large urban center, you might find a lab that could perform the tests you need. Reptile blood is handled in the same way avian (bird) blood is processed. However, always ask what they use as an anti-coagulant. Heparin (lithium heparin) is preferred over EDTA as EDTA may affect the form and structure of the cells.
You would want both hematology and blood chemistry done. Hematology looks at the red and white blood cell count, the hemoglobin and lymphocytes while blood chemistry shows what the calcium, phosphorus, potassium and other biochemical levels are.
Having this information before your iguana shows any signs of illness will help you and your vet be clear about what is happening and will help you understand more fully what the vet is talking about when he explains the results of a blood test done when your iguana is sick.
Any veterinarian who suspects organ failure will do a series of blood tests to determine what is going wrong. As we have discussed in the past, the symptoms for liver or kidney disease can be hard to define. Having a normal blood value chart can help to eliminate some of the questions. See (PRINTED NEWSLETTER) for the blood values from a normal iguana. If you get your iguana's blood values charted, you can compare them to this iguana's values.
Vol.9, No.5
Building a Summer Shelter
An outdoor enclosure must be built sturdily and safely to protect the iguana from predators and from escape. This is a very important point. Never build or put together a temporary enclosure that is not built well. Use high quality materials and strong wire that has small openings in it.
An iguana that escapes is destined to perish if not discovered immediately. Most iguanas that escape go up. The iguana is an arboreal creature. They live high up in trees. An iguana that goes up into a very high tree is pretty hard to recover - even if you are able to spot it.
And, generally, any iguana that escapes for several hours will be very hard to find. Many iguanas stay close to home and many have been recovered by thankful owners but an iguana that lives in a northern climate that is not found quickly will eventually succumb to cold temperatures.
So build an outdoor enclosure but plan ahead and build it well. You iguana will thrive and be so much healthier for it.
This enclosure is a redesign of a playhouse in the April 2003 issue of Sunset Magazine (Page 172). The Sunset playhouse uses heavier materials and is much larger but the peaked idea makes a great enclosure with height for an iguana to climb.
Since this enclosure is up off of the ground, it is much safer for an iguana that is either in an unenclosed yard or is unprotected from dogs and other animals that also use the yard.
The uprights can be either 4x4's or 2x4's, depending on how substantially it is built. An enclosure with 2x4 legs might be light enough that two people could lift and reposition it. It could also be designed with wheels on two of the legs so it could be lifted and rolled.
A portion of the floor should be covered with 1/4" plywood to prevent the iguana from feeling exposed from underneath. A removable kitty litter pan-type pool could be recessed into the floor.
Don't forget to build a door into one side that is
large enough to give you access to most of the cage. If there is a branch
or ladder that reaches into the peak, you may have a bit of trouble taking
the iguana out of the cage at the end of a nice sunny day.
Use metal brackets and joist hangers to secure the peak sections. Use 1/2 inch hardware cloth as the wire. Never use chicken wire or wire with larger holes. Your iguana may think he or she can squeeze through the holes. An iguana that thinks they can escape through the wire will cause injury to their nose from rubbing against the metal wire.
Use heavy staples from a pneumatic nailer (you can rent one for the day) or u-shaped hardware nails to secure the wire to the frame. Never use lightweight staples from a staple gun that can be dislodged by an iguana bent on escape.
To provide shade, matchstick bamboo shades can be hung at the top of the peaks and rolled down when needed. A three by six foot shade is only about $10.00.
When creating shelving and placing branches, consider removal for cleaning. Build shelf supports wide enough to place shelf boards without the need for nails or drill and secure shelf boards with bolts and wing-nuts so that the shelf can be removed easily.
Bolts with wing-nuts can be used to secure any shelving for easy removal of shelf for cleaning. Inexpensive plastic clip ties can be used for attaching branches, plants or water and food containers.
Materials for the 3x3 ft. enclosure:
(If you choose to make the enclosure 4x4 ft. then the material sizes would reflect that change.)
4 - 4x4x8 posts to be cut to 6 ft. for the uprights
(You can use 2x4's for the uprights for a lighter weight cage)
4 - 4x4x2 braces for the legs. Sandwich between 2x4's that form the floor. (If you use 2x4's as legs, use the remaining 2x4 pieces from the 8ft. 2x4 uprights as braces.)
9 - 2x4x3 including frame crosspieces, floor joists, and ridge beam. If you buy 10ft. 2x4's, you can get three 2x4x3 ft. pieces.
8 - 2x4x3+ which includes the outer crosspiece supports that butt to the 2x4x3's (these pieces will be slightly longer and should be measured and cut when the other crosspieces are in place. (Measure twice, cut once!) The 2x4's that are laid flat to secure the top of the cage are also slightly longer than three feet. These boards should be mitered and attached to the top of the 4x4 posts. If you use 2x4's for the legs the top pieces should be measured and fitted to the inside edges of the 2x4 legs.
2 - 1x4x3 facia across gable sections for a finished look.
Galvanized decking screws, heavy-duty staples, U-nails, joist hangers and metal brackets for securing the gable sections.
36" wide 1/2" hardware cloth for sides, peaked roof and floor.
2 - 3ft. matchstick bamboo shades for the top of the roof.
1/4" plywood for as much of the floor of the cage as needed.
Kitty litter pan for pool.
Branches and ladders for climbing.
Vol. 9/No. 6/7
From Monster to Mouse and Back Again
AN AGGRESSIVE MALE DURING THE BREEDING SEASON CAN BE MORE THAN INTIMIDATING.
The Dr. Jekyll - Mr. Hyde comparison when describing a male iguana is apt. A friendly, seemingly tame male iguana can change almost overnight to a wild, biting machine willing to take anything on - be it a pair of shoes or an owner's ankle.
Breeding season for both males and females or heat for males can occur at different times of the year depending on where you live and what your iguana's photoperiod and environment is like. An iguana in California may go into breeding behavior in early fall while an iguana in the eastern (and colder) area of the country might begin displaying breeding behavior later in the year. Some of the timing is just what your iguana's evolutionary time clock tells him or her what to do. Rarely is there deviation in the timing and if your male iguana becomes aggressive and goes into heat in September, he will usually continue to behave that way every year of his life.
Unfortunately for the owners of unspayed, aggressive males, the heat behavior can last for several months. The onset of a change in color (usually orange) will signal the beginning of what can be a dangerous period for everyone, including the iguana.
An overly aggressive male should be carefully monitored and probably caged during this period, especially if there are young children around. The bite from an angry iguana can be very painful and can send you off to the emergency room for stitches.
Similar aggressiveness, while more temporary than breeding behavior, can overtake any iguana, male or female, who is just getting back out into real sunlight after a long winter indoors. A very tame iguana that has been lacking energy all winter will suddenly become very enthusiastic about everything including food. That enthusiasm can include thrashing, threatening behavior like head bobbing and mouth opening, and even biting. Care must be taken the first few times you move an iguana in and out of an outdoor enclosure so that the iguana won't bite you or wiggle free. If your iguana shows aggressiveness after being out in the sun, use caution when picking him or her up and loosely wrap your ig in a towel so sharp claws can't cut you. While this sun aggressiveness is normal, don't fret...a tame iguana will settle down after a couple of weeks of sun exposure. Take advantage of this summer enthusiasm to feed your iguana as much as he or she will eat so that if your iguana goes into the winter blahs and tends to refuse to eat in the winter, the fat stores that have built up over the summer will help sustain him or her.
Gravid females benefit from this method because anorexia (refusal of food) is unfortunately often part of the process of producing eggs. A female tends to gorge on food during the summer because she knows that when she is full of eggs, she won't be able to consume much food.
An iguana in the wild will eat during the wet season when plants are growing and full of leaves and fruit. They know food is plentiful during only certain times of the year because instinct tells them that the dry season will bring less rain and less food.
It is important to remember that you are dealing with a wild animal that exists on instinct and the evolutionary drive to survive and procreate the species. It doesn't matter if the iguana you have was bred in captivity and purchased from a pet store. Natural instincts and evolution have more to do with how your iguana acts than where he or she was born.
Another factor in how your iguana acts is what happened to him or her when young. As you will read in the story on Page Three, an iguana that is raised without much contact with people will be much harder to tame than one that has been hand-raised and had exposure to handling by people.
When you combine a male iguana with his drive to procreate and an iguana that is not handled by people for most of his life, you will get an iguana that hopefully only goes crazy during a portion of the year.
It is a testament to the iguana personality that they can become as docile and friendly as they are. The fact that we can "tame" them hasn't as much to do with us as with their ability to overcome the deep-seated fear of predation by larger creatures. They can process how we treat them and realize that we aren't going to hurt them (or eat them!) so they allow us to handle them, clip their nails, and pick at their shed skin. They live with us and feel safe.
We shouldn't take this for granted. It is amazing that we can have such a close relationship with animals like giant iguanas who have so many defense mechanisms to protect themselves and (mostly) choose not to use them.
We try to understand why our iguanas, especially males, can become the scary Mr. Hyde for part of the year and then revert back to kind, gentle Dr. Jeckyll. We can't get angry at them, it's not their fault that they don't trust us. It is our job to build that trust. Some people just don't have the patience or the time to invest in taming a really wild iguana. And they shouldn't try. Anger and frustration will never win over the heart of a frightened animal.
The iguana male who is the most aggressive must be the
iguana that gets the most attention. It takes time and patience to win
over a really aggressive iguana but it can be done. If you try holding an
iguana, no matter how much they struggle to be free, eventually they give
up and calm down. You cannot squeeze them or twist them but if you are firm
in your grasp they will eventually give in. You have won the dominance battle.
If you show fear or release them when they put up a fight, they learn to
do the same behavior again. You must try and overcome bad behavior with
patience and persistence. It may seem futile at first but if you continue
and are consistent, you will win them over.
Vol. 9/No. 10
Dehydration or Dying of Thirst
THERE IS NO DOUBT THAT WE TAKE THE ROLE OF WATER, as it relates to the health of our iguana, for granted. We know that our iguana gets water through the leafy greens we feed them and that if we mist them with water once in a while, we are providing humidity. However, the role of water is far more critical than we may realize.
TBW - Total Body Water - represents sixty precent of the body weight of an animal. In the initial growth years, total body water in a healthy young iguana can be even higher. Additionally, males have a higher TBW than females.
Because of the important role of heat in the life of an ectothermic reptile (one that relies on an external source of heat to raise body temperature), it is critical to replenish fluids constantly to maintain healthy tissues and proper gastrointestinal function.
About forty percent of total body water is intracellular fluid, the fluid that inhabits the cells of the body. The remaining twenty percent of fluid - extra and transcellular fluid - are the components of blood, plasma, tissue, bone - including fluid in the joints and tendons (synovial fluid), and water in the gastrointestinal tract.
A complex series of mechanisms control the absorption and distribution of fluids throughout the body but the process begins in the gastrointestinal tract.
All of these associated processes depend on a balance of water manufactured from ingested water, the intake of foods containing water, fluid generated from the metabolism of proteins and carbohydrates and respiration verses the loss of water from urine, feces, respiration and the result of external heat.
When the balance is disrupted because of a lack of fluids consumed, the body reacts the same way it does to the lack of calcium. When an iguana doesn't get an adequate amount of dietary calcium, a hormone (PTH) is produced that transfers calcium from the bones to the blood to achieve the proper blood calcium levels. This calcium transfer causes many of the normal functions and structures of the body to fail - the bones thin, the normal fluid balance is disrupted causing joint swelling and inflammation.
When the water ingested is out of balance with the water needed for adequate bodily function - dehydration - intracellular water is drawn into the vascular system (the vessels that provide blood and fluid to the body), causing cellular dehydration. To balance the need for water in the intracellular membrane with the need for fluid in the extracellular and vascular areas, the body undergoes osmosis. See the definition on Page Three.
The response of the body to the deficit of water depends on the level of dehydration but any level can do irreversible damage to renal (kidney) function and can be implicated in the formation of bladder stones due to the concentration of urates. The clinical or observable signs of dehydration are listed in the chart on Page Three.
Any level of dehydration above five percent deficit must be corrected immediately to avoid serious and irreversible damage to vital organs and tissues. Raising humidity levels, soaking, giving fluids by mouth like Pedialyte or Gatorade or by fluid replacement therapy administered by someone with experience delivering fluids subcutaneously. A severely dehydrated animal, especially one that is battling other diseases, infection or injury, should be hydrated intravenously by a veterinarian because larger volumes of fluid can be administered rapidly.
Any iguana on antibiotic therapy will also benefit from hydration to prevent renal damage. Ask the veterinarian if the antibiotics he or she is prescribing needs adjuvant or simultaneous fluid therapy during the course of the antibiotic treatment. You can administer the hydration therapy subcutaneously if you aren't afraid of needles and you have someone to help hold your iguana. Ask your vet if they will show you how to deliver the replacement fluid.
Iguanas have a lateral or horizontal fold in the skin along their body. This area tends to be less attached to the underlying tissue and is easier to access with a needle. Fluid is delivered through a plastic tube fitted with a needle from a large bag of saline or other prescribed fluid. The large needle is carefully placed subcutaneously into the area between the foreleg and back leg above the fold. Subcutaneous means just below the skin's surface. Fluid amounts vary from 15 to 35 mL. (milliliters) per kg. (kilograms) per day.
To avoid having to deal with dehydration in your iguana, you must insure that water is delivered in as many ways as possible. In the rainforest the air is so humid that the iguana actually breathes in very tiny droplets of water.
It is very difficult to reach that level of humidity in a captive environment so you have to do the best you can to raise humidity. Feed lots of very fresh greens ideally just washed and retaining droplets of water, soak your iguana frequently in a tepid tub of water and offer not only water to soak in but water to drink, fresh water that you change daily, in the enclosure.
Many people believe that hand misting the iguana and the enclosure will raise humidity to the proper levels. While misting is good, it would be very hard for a few minutes of hand misting to reach the level of humidity that would occur in the rain forest. Adding a humidifier when your house is particularly dry - in the winter from forced air heating and in the summer from air conditioning - will help to raise humidity levels.
Adding a tray with rocks and filled with water daily will add moisture to the enclosure as will a container with a large water surface. A container that has a large water surface will probably be used by the iguana to defecate in so, while it is ideal for pooping and soaking, it must be changed and cleaned daily.
Some books recommend adding a wet sponge but you must watch out for the growth of fungus and mold in and on the sponge. Soaking a sponge in hot water and some bleach will kill any mold that might be growing but you must be sure to rinse out the sponge thoroughly so toxic fumes from the chlorine won't be introduced to your enclosure.
ORGAN DAMAGE AND GOUT CAUSED BY DEHYDRATION
When an iguana becomes dehydrated from a lack of water and begins to lose cellular fluid, insoluble salts build in the organs and joints of the body. Sodium, potassium and ammonium urates accumulate in the kidneys, heart and other tissues due to an imbalance of fluids and their components - the ions, cations and anions - which react with uric acid to form the insoluble salts. Without the necessary water (H20), the metabolic process is adversely affected and inflammation of the internal organs and joints occurs.
Without the right amount of ingested water, urinary waste products are not properly flushed from the body. Even the salt glands that afford the iguana the ability to "sneeze" out the accumulation of potassium salts cannot keep up with the production of salts. The build up of these salts is referred to as "gout". These salts and metabolic waste products can do permanent damage to the delicate tissues of the internal organs and sites around joints. Veterinarians see uroliths (urinary bladder stones), viseral or arterial gout, hepatic disease of the liver, nephritis, and severe renal disease often due to repeated incidents of dehydration.
When damage from insoluble salts occurs there is no treatment that can be given at home. Iguanas that suffer from these diseases will be under the care of a veterinarian for a long time and may even need surgery to remove stones that block the flow of urine. Continual bouts with dehydration or lack of ingested water can slowly damage the kidneys causing the kidney failure and renal disease that is ultimately fatal.
A dehydrated iguana's skin will appear tight. When pinched, the iguana's skin will remain elevated for a few moments. Be observant and monitor your iguana's fluid intake. Your iguana's skin should be supple and moist appearing - not wet but shiny and flexible.
Feed freshly washed greens of all varieties, avoid overfeeding of foods like spinach, bok choy, swiss chard, carrot tops, and parsley. Soak your iguana often and for a long enough period to insure that water can be drawn into the cloacalemic cavity at the base of the tail, raise the humidity in the enclosure with repeated misting or a humidifier, mist the outdoor enclosure during the warmest days with an automatic mister system, avoid exposing your iguana to very high temperatures for prolonged periods, do not use sun lamps to replace ultraviolet light sources, make sure that there is always drinking water available and place a large water source in the enclosure for defecating (not too deep with an easy way to climb out.)
Since the role of water is so important to the health of your iguana, make sure that you employ all of the methods to introduce water into your iguana's diet and environment.
Back to Iguana Iguana Home Page
Previous Articles in IGUANA IGUANA
Go to Tips and Tricks
Go to Questions and Answers
Go to Make Your Iguana A Rainforest
Go to Games and Puzzles
Best and Worst
Iguana Hall of Fame
Favorite Ig Names
Iguana Nutrition
A Day in the Life of an Iguana
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THE JOYS OF IGUANA OWNERSHIP
Printed issues of
IGUANA IGUANA 
Newsletter contain
sample articles, like:
From Monster to Mouse and Back Again, Living with a (part-time) Mini-Monster, From the Mail BAg - What I Go Through Living with a Crazed Male Iguana (with photo essay), Nails are for Clipping, Spotlight on Vegetables - The Rutabaga, Ask Dr. Spike - When is it too hot for my iguana to be outside?, Keep Cool!
Taking a Bite Out of Summer, Reviewing Your Iguana's Health, A Pool for Your Outdoor Enclosure, Adding Humidity to the Outdoor Enclosure - A Mist System on a Times, An Iguana Picnic, Ask Dr. Spike - Why does my iguana eat dirt?, Happy Summer!
Bad Boys, Bad Boys, Whatcha Gonna Do?, Breeding Season, Castration - Surgery and Chemical, The Presto Salad Shooter for easy meals, Ask Dr. Spike - My male iguana turns orange. What does that mean?
Dehydration - Dying of Thirst, Organ Damage Caused By Dehydration, Dehydration - Observable and Clinical Signs, Signs of Viseral Gout, Summer Fruit, Conversion Chart, End of Summer Iguana Salad, Lizards Living Large in Florida, Humidity in the Enclosure, Ask Dr. Spike - My iguana eats his feces - Ugh!, Happy End of Summer!
Skeletons in the Closet - Building a Closet Enclosure, Electrical Work in the Clsoet, The Third Eye, FallBack - Change your timers, Ask Dr. Spike - there are strange things in my iguana's poop!, Lots of Halloween Iguana Hats, October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month! and Happy Iguana Halloween!
Many Reasons for Giving Thanks, The Proper Way to Hand-Feed An Iguana that isn't Eating, Preparing the Blended Food, From the Mailbox - I Lost My Iguana in the House!, Autumn Torte Recipe and Fig Dessert for You and Your Iguana's Thanksgiving Dinner, Happy Thanksgiving!
